For almost 10 years, Riding House's Café in Fitzrovia has been quite popular and the new Bloomsbury spin-off is no different. Bloomsbury could certainly use a restaurant with a lovely outdoor atmosphere and the new Riding House Café, like the others before it, is a a contemporary brasserie located in the Brunswick Centre.
The new restaurant, is similar in size and vibe to the Fitzrovia original, with a modern all-day menu that includes nods to Executive Chef Henry Omereye's Caribbean heritage. Executive Chef Henry Omereye and Head Chef Gerald Mirey oversee the cuisine, which will evolve over time with a focus on healthy alternatives, bowls, and skewers.
Located in Bloomsbury's Brunswick Centre, a Grade-II listed piece of Brutalist architecture, Rail House Fitzoria cafe's new sibling is less than a mile away; the two restaurants virtually straddle both sides of the British Museum.
Upon entering we were told that they needed the table back within the next four hours, which was not a positive first impression from the host. We were then led to a calm restaurant for a soft opening, where we were seated at a table that was too tiny for two people. The whole environment was unkempt, and the fixtures and furnishings were basic. The atmosphere, lighting, and the rest of it were not really appealing.
The cuisine was mostly plant-based and healthy. The menu was extensive, with many options for customers, but they appeared to have run out of their most popular dish, lamb.
However, the crispy okra in yuzu ponzu dip they served was delicious.
The cassava hummus and sourdough bread are my favorites. That tasted like nacho cheese dip to me.
Then the flatbread was served with the skewers. The octopus, nduja, and lime yoghurt skewers were tasty, but they had a charred barbeque flavor to them.
I don't really care much for the eryngii skewer, but I do enjoy mushrooms, so I'm not sure if it's the eryngii's flavor or the way they prepared it that made it so delectable.
The artichoke atop the flatbread was underwhelming because it wasn't served as a dip. The bread became a little soggy as a result.
Briefly, while the cuisine was great, we didn't enjoy the atmosphere in general. The tables were so close together and it was impossible to have any privacy. Some of the tables were low couches, and they really tried to cram as many seats in there as possible. The restaurant echoes was quite loud so it was really difficult to hear each other as well. Just make sure to get a booth so your stay is much more comfortable.
Moreover, the pricing was too high for the quality of the cuisine, but the 50% off for the soft opening made it palatable. The cuisines were adequate, albeit a touch bland. However, the spices, particularly the sauces, more than made up for the blandness. While I may not be going back any soon, the café is still worth checking out.
